Showing posts with label video games. Show all posts
Showing posts with label video games. Show all posts

Sunday, May 3, 2026

Frustrating Steam Deck issue fixed

 I noticed my cloud save wasn't syncing after exiting a game, and retrying didn't do the job. So I shut down and powered on again. The Steam Deck was stuck on the bootup logo for maybe 10 minutes, and then stuck on the Steam log-in screen for maybe 20 to 30 minutes. 

My Internet wasn't down on my PC, and it looked like I was connecting on Wi-Fi just fine. At this point it seemed the problem was on Steam's end, but this page told the real fix, specifically: 

Press the STEAM button, go to Settings → Internet, toggle Wi-Fi off, wait ten seconds, toggle it back on. If the network reconnects but still drops or runs slow, select the network, choose “Forget,” then re-enter the password. This clears a corrupted DHCP lease — the single most common cause of “connected but no internet” on Steam Deck, confirmed in dozens of SteamDeck subreddit threads.

Thursday, February 5, 2026

New final best firmware setups for PSP and Vita in 2026

PSP:

On any model, it's ARK-4. Grab your official 6.61 firmware, remove any trace of former CFW, update to OFW, and add your new ARK-4 CFW. It's even updateable right from the console itself. The firmware even allows for WPA2 (something the PSP didn't originally support), which is absolutely nuts. 

https://github.com/PSP-Archive/ARK-4 Main link

https://github.com/PSP-Archive/ARK-4/wiki/Recommended-Plugins Recommended Plugins, though I don't use all of them myself. 


Vita and PSTV

First things first: it's best to completely eliminate all dependency on Sony's crappy proprietary Vita memory cards. This tutorial shows how to add internal storage on a Vita 1000 without any memory card or PC at all:

  1. Run HENlo jailbreak, install Henkaku, and without exiting, replace NEAR with VitaDeploy. System reboots. 
  2. Run HENlo jailbreak, install Henkaku, exit, then go to Settings > Henkaku Settings, Enable Unsafe Homebrew. 
  3. Run VitaDeploy > Miscellaneous > Create an internal memory card > choose Default 2xxx storage configuration. System reboots.
  4. Go to Settings >  Format > Format Memory Card > check Internal Memory Card and format. System reboots. You now have just enough space to Download everything VitaDeploy offers, including Enso if you need to downgrade
    • Side note: If you're on the latest official firmware (3.74) and had to downgrade to 3.65 in the first place, you won't be able to fully replace Near when you're on 3.65, if you care about that at all. In my case, the icon was restored but the icon name (unchangeable) still said vdep. The devs recommend disabling firmware spoofing and going back up to 3.74 (which is safe and fine because the internal memory card partition persists across firmware updates). At this point Near should be restored.  You can use that internal memory on your HENlo'd 3.74 to download the version of VitaDeploy that doesn't remove Near, download Enso along with other apps you want from the Downloads menu within VitaDeploy, and you're good. 
  5. Use ITLS-Enso (from VitaDeploy) to uninstall and then reinstall the full certificate to regain access to the PS Store.

Reading around, the new partition really is the same "extra memory" that the Vita 2000 and PSTV have, so you're not really losing anything. And the most risky thing (moving across firmwares) has proven to be no issue at all. 

If you're like me and you already had a working homebrew setup with a 4 GB memory card and an SD2Vita, and you wanted to go completely Vita memory card-less, first take note of your bubble layout with a video (none of the bubble manager apps have ever worked for me).. Then you just need to do the following... although this is from memory, so I may be including steps I don't need or missing steps I do need because I was figuring it out as I went along:

    1. Shut down Vita and remove original Vita memory card and SD2Vita. 
    2. Run HENlo jailbreak, install Henkaku, and without exiting, replace NEAR with VitaDeploy. System reboots.
    3. Run HENlo jailbreak, install Henkaku, exit, then go to Settings > Henkaku Settings, Enable Unsafe Homebrew. 
    4. Run VitaDeploy > Miscellaneous > Create an internal memory card > choose Default 2xxx storage configuration. System reboots.
    5. Go to Settings >  Format > Format Memory Card > check Internal Memory Card and format. System reboots. 
    6. Run HENlo jailbreak, install Henkaku, and without exiting, replace NEAR with VitaDeploy. System reboots (but this time, choose to restore). 
    7. Shut down Vita, reinsert SD2Vita, and power on. You should have your games again (though need of organizing), while no longer relying on that ticking time bomb that is the proprietary Vita memory card. 

    Anyway, on the Vita/PSTV side, you still want 3.65 Enso, which you can downgrade to painlessly straight from the browser. Get started with Henkaku in the browser and click Install. Downgrade to 3.65 and make it permanent with Enso. From there, check my older posts about things you definitely need.

    Jailbreak link again. Why are there so many? 

    https://henkaku.xyz/ or  

    http://deploy.psp2.dev/ or 

    jailbreak.psp2.dev 

    On the PSP side, you want to use Isage's fork for Adrenaline. Stepping back for a bit, although you can apply ARK-4 to the regular Adrenaline, it's only Isage's fork of it that fixes the PSP's recovery mode's autoboot. And having it autoboot the ARK-4 loader is the preferred way to load ARK-4 now because, as the ARK-4 github states, the Adrenaline Bubbles Manager method installs an older version of Adrenaline. That means you don't want to use Adrenaline Bubbles Manager at all anymore. 

    Continuing, you want to use Game Categories Lite v1.7-js1 by Ticky, making sure to add and enable it in VSH.text and PLUGINS.txt, then going into the XMB Settings (and ARK-4 Plugin Manager) to make sure it's on. This fork is the version recommended by the ARK-4 team (linked above). 

    https://github.com/isage/Adrenaline/releases/tag/v7.1.7

    https://github.com/ticky/game-categories-lite/releases/tag/1.7-js1

    Monday, December 8, 2025

    Thoughts on Final Fantasy Tactics: War of the Lions (PSP version)

    Made another too-long comment on YouTube and it'd be a waste to let it disappear into the ether so here it is: 


    I still want to play the PSP version the most, if only for those extra characters and classes, but it needs all sorts of hacks for a comfortable experience. 

    Slowdown: Fixed with LivePatch or a patched ISO. 

    Graphics: Fixed with LivePatch or a patched ISO, and probably combined or bundled with the slowdown patch.  Makes the game look absolutely perfect on PSTV with Sharpscale, or on original hardware with component output with a RetroTINK 4K zooming in. Many PSP games actually have "pixel perfect" screen modes that shrink the game area to 240p for extra sharpness; such modes are too small for me to bother with on an actual PSP screen, but benefit tremendously when playing on a TV. 

    Soft Reset: Best plugin I've found for this is GameMenu, also known as In game VSH menu (satellite). Highly configurable so you can even hit that musical note button on your PSP to bring up a menu in-game where you can reset, but I like binding it to Home + Select so I can reset with a Dual Shock 3 when playing on a docked PSPgo. There was another plugin called EzGameReset but it tended to crash the game back to the XMB instead of resetting.

    Spell quote restoration: Need a tool called Valhalla, but I don't think there was much progress made on this and I haven't bothered with it. Hopefully someone out there documented all the Ivalice Chronicles spell quotes so they can be easily implemented.

    Music restoration: Practically modern-day sorcery and I have yet to attempt this. Ideally you'd use the Final Fantasy Tactics OST rip. Then you'd have to do the hard work in Audacity with finding and marking beginning and end loop markers for each track, encoding to .at3 with AT9&AT3 Converter, then putting it all together with UMDGen. At least I think that's how it works. When I've solved all my other problems, have all the free time in the world, and am bored of absolutely everything else, I suppose I'll try this for real.

    EDIT: My PSX2PSP searches have yielded ATRACTool-Reloaded for audio conversion as well. 

    Saturday, June 28, 2025

    Got the official Steam Deck Dock!

    And I am not happy!

    https://www.reddit.com/r/SteamDeck/comments/11xbgfx/comment/n07o7os/


    EDIT: 

    Seems I have a lot more success if I have the TV input already set, and then connect the dock while it's already on. In other words, don't have the dock in standby mode when you connect the dock (with power and HDMI already connected) to the port on the top of the Steam Deck. 

    This only applies to connecting the dock to an actual TV. I still needed to connect it to my DVDO Edge for capture and video monitors... or maybe the TESmart switcher doesn't like it. But even if the switcher was the problem, I'm not going to do anything about it now. 


    EDIT 2: 

    I'm convinced the Steam Deck just needs SOME kind of scaler if not hooked directly up to an actual TV. But I don't need to move furniture around just to connect it to my DVDO Edge either. The RetroTINK-4K Pro that I already have is more convenient and the picture looks fantastic! 

    Tuesday, April 29, 2025

    Making a Magic Memory Stick for PSP Jigkick in 2025

    This was way harder than it needed to be because of all the outdated information out there. 

    Starting with ARK4 and DC-ARK (aka ARK DC?), I kept getting an error on the PSP itself that pointed me to "Team C+D mspformat PC Tool" that apparently only runs on 32-bit Windows XP or some crap. You don't need that. And the ARK-4 readme points you to MagicMemoryCreator which requires Python and command prompts that I don't understand and you don't either. That's all unnecessary too. There was also Resizer Portable which was an "improved" method, but who knows when in the timeline that was, and it didn't work anyway. 

    It took a video from one of the legends of the PSP scene to point me to the right direction. You just need a PSP utility called PSP Tool

    Here's exactly what I did, even if some parts were redundant:

    1. Run PSP Tool, format memory card. PSP restarts.
    2. Copy over PSP Tool again and run it, and choose to create Magic Memory Stick. When it's done (takes several minutes), press Home to exit.
    3. Copy over firmware 6.61 to the root of the Magic Memory Stick (and name it 661.PBP or 661GO.PBP for PSPgo), and run DC-ARK This also takes several minutes. 

    When it's all done, you'll be back at the XMB. Shutdown and place that memory stick some place safe. 

    Sunday, April 27, 2025

    Thinking of building a candy cab...

    Out of nowhere I had the urge to get a 2-player metal control panel from a Japanese-style arcade cabinet. I think I got a good deal on mine: $130 shipped from Japan, with two Sanwa levers, eight action buttons, two start buttons, and two button plugs included. That's probably about the price I'd have to pay for a high-quality repro from Arcade Art Shop shipping from Britain, and those are just the bare panels with overlays. In the future, though, I think the mountings on the repro panels allow for a greater variety of sticks, 

    This video gave me the idea of making a box for the panel, and that you don't necessarily need to have an arcade cab to use it. Then this video gave me other ideas. And then I thought, why not modular? I got to thinking:

    • Ideally I'd be able to have a box for the control panel now and use it like any other bespoke arcade joystick setup to put on a table or maybe your lap, and then connect it back to the cab when I want to play on the cab. 
    • Entire should be easier to assemble and disassemble to fit through doorways.
    • Even just the base and the control panel is a good thing to have; we can worry about the monitor later. 
    • Should be able to swap out different panels for different layouts (e.g. one-player games on a 4-way stick on a single-player panel)
    • If I don't want to use the arcade panel I should be able to remove that part and just use commercial sticks... maybe with clamps? 
    • Auxillary buttons could go... somewhere else 
    • Monitor should be easily rotatable
    • By keeping it simple (i.e. no cutouts to keep the metal panel flush), you can switch between the curved Sega panels and square Vewlix panels. Plus, zero chance your arm gets pinched by any gaps between the metal panel and any cutout
    • Blender is a free alternative to Sketchup

    Info Dump:

    Using the Sega Saturn Virtua Stick Pro as inspiration, matching the dimensions should be width: 23 cm and depth: 13 cm. 

    Vewlix panels are 68.0W x 14.4D cms

    Sunday, March 23, 2025

    Capture Card doesn't get audio from OSSC Pro when using HDMI video and HDMI audio

    I've recently taken a liking to chaining my RetroTINK-5X Pro into my OSSC Pro. The RT5X just does 240p/480i resolution switching better (especially in 1080p Over mode), and I really love the HDR injection which the OSSC Pro itself has too, but never worked for me. But I still need the OSSC Pro for its ultra-fine picture control, better compatibility with arcade boards, and guaranteed 4:4:4 chroma subsampling... or was that color space? I dunno. 

    The one downside to the RT5X-OSSC Pro chain is my capture card doesn't see any audio activity when using AV4 (HDMI in) and Digital Audio at the same time. I would still get hear audio thanks to my audio setup that can extract audio from HDMI sources (even if it's quieter than straight up RCA), but the capture card doesn't see audio, resulting in videos with silent audio. 

    Most of the consoles I use output RGB, so after transcoding RGB to component, I split the audio and video where they reach both the RT5X and the OSSC Pro. And I can have the OSSC Pro selected to the HDMI (which is the output from  RT5X) but use AV2's RCA audio for input.

    I wondered if it was the port itself or the RT5X, so I tried Nintendo Switch > OSSC Pro and that works.

    Here's what doesn't work:

    RT5X > OSSC Pro > TESmart HDMI Switcher > two HDMI splitters > capture card

    RT5X > OSSC Pro > TESmart HDMI Switcher > two HDMI splitters > capture card

    RT2X > OSSC Pro > TESmart HDMI Switcher > two HDMI splitters > capture card

    Here's what does:

    RT5X > DVDO Edge > TESmart HDMI Switcher > two HDMI splitters > capture card

    Nintendo Switch > OSSC Pro > TESmart HDMI Switcher > two HDMI splitters > capture card

    So I don't know what the problem is with the OSSC Pro. There used to be a problem with the OSSC Pro's audio recognition in my capture card that was fixed, so here's hoping this will be addressed too. 

    Friday, March 21, 2025

    Organizing the PS1 library

    I acquired the full PS1 library in downloadable form somewhere online. That place no longer hosts it, but another place does... and it's just as well; the handful of corrupted zips from the former were not corrupted on the latter. 

    Once downloaded, I unzipped them all to be Xstation-ready. In hindsight, I probably should've left the European games zipped, but at least now I know the zips were 99% good.

    I originally decided to sort by letter regardless of region, which was good, but not great. 26 letters felt like too large of a choice for an initial sorting. And many games can have several variations. There are the US and JP versions, and then a whole bunch of European language versions, of course in crappy PAL format, which I'd like to skip altogether. 

    So I decided to sort like the Smokemonster EverDrive packs I've found. The first directory (for now) looks like this:

    • 1 US and Canada - A-Z
    • 2 Europe, UK, and Australia - A-Z
    • 2 Japan - A-Z
    • 2 Other Regions - A-Z
    • 3 Emulators
    • 3 My Own Personal Dumps
    • 4 Betas, Prototypes, Revisions
    • 4 Hacks
    • 4 Homebrew
    • 4 Translations
    • 5 Tools & Service Tests

    So let's look at the first folder. I put all the USA games, plus the two or three Canadian games, in a single folder. I want to split that giant folder into somewhat even-sized groups (this stackoverflow thread gave me some ideas), so let's count the number of games per letter for now:

    • 1 US and Canada - A-Z

    1960 items, 888 GB total

    # & A: 105 /// B: 106 /// C: 121 /// D: 120 /// E: 41

    F: 103 /// G: 76 /// H: 34 /// I: 47 /// J: 31

    K: 35 /// L: 41 /// M: 143 /// N: 150 /// O: 69

    P: 149 /// Q: 6 /// R: 98 /// S: 201 /// T: 142

    U: 12 /// V: 28 /// W: 71 /// X: 23 /// Y: 5 /// Z: 3

    Getting the ideal average size grouping of games: 1960 / 4 = 490

    Adding letters to hit approximately 490: 

    A through E: 493

    F through M: 510

    N through R: 472

    S through Z: 485

    This section is now renamed and these split folders are in the top directory: 1 US and Canada - A-E


    • 2 Europe, UK, and Australia - A-Z

    3667 items, 1.71 TB

    # & A: 246 /// B: 149 /// C: 223 /// D: 393 /// E: 312

    F: 237 /// G: 110 /// H: 86 /// I: 46 /// J: 42

    K: 73 /// L: 107 /// M: 219 /// N: 165 /// O: 55

    P: 196 /// Q: 8 /// R: 175 /// S: 317 /// T: 203

    U: 33 /// V: 65 /// W: 135 /// X: 52 /// Y: 11 /// Z: 12

    Getting the ideal average size grouping of games: 3667 / 4 = 916

    Adding letters to hit approximately 916: 

    A through D: 1011

    E through K: 906

    L through R: 925

    S through Z: 828

    These split directories will NOT go to the top directory, and will remain in the 2 Europe, UK, and Australia - A-Z folder. 


    • 2 Japan - A-Z

    4709 items, 1.85 TB

    # & A: 246 /// B: 217 /// C: 233 /// D: 325 /// E: 100

    F: 162 /// G: 194 /// H: 208 /// I: 49 /// J: 102

    K: 278 /// L: 102 /// M: 317 /// N: 158 /// O: 82

    P: 340 /// Q: 12 /// R: 143 /// S: 783 /// T: 314

    U: 50 /// V: 58 /// W: 106 /// X: 17 /// Y: 64 /// Z: 49

    Getting the ideal average size grouping of games: 4709 / 4 = 1177.25

    Adding letters to hit approximately 1177: 

    A through E: 1121

    F through L: 1095

    M through R: 1052

    S through Z: 1441


    • 2 Other Regions - A-Z

    30 items, 13.3 GB

    This folder has regions from: Asia, China, Korea, Israel, Russia, Taiwan. Anyone know if "Asia" is PAL or what? The Chinese-named games probably are, but I don't know about Suikoden.


    • 3 Emulators


    • 4 Betas, Prototypes, Revisions

    I like having the latest version of the games in the main folder. You can find which games had revisions by "(Rev)" in the file name, so just note those and move out the other one.


    • 4 Hacks

    CDRomance. Love those Biohazard 1.5 builds!


    • 5 Tools & Service Tests

    Sunday, June 30, 2024

    More Vita Troubleshooting

    I can't install VPKs. (Error 0x80010002)

    This is not a memory card issue or a motherboard issue. You just need to let your Vita or PSTV format the contents of a Vita memory card (ideally with not a lot of stuff on it) in Settings, then copy your entire memory card (ux0) via FTP, and then FTP it all back to your SD2Vita (ux0), choosing to overwrite in your FTP program when asked. 

    Other than your FTP program, there is no longer any need for Windows and viewing hidden files! I believe this allowed me to format my SD card in VitaDeploy as well, skipping any formatting done on PC. (original Github thread


    Sharkf00d keeps crashing.

    The only reason you should bother with this is VitaDB Downloader, which as I understand is better than Vita Homebrew Browser. So instead of gambling with its extremely poor installation success rate, just download this guy's libshacccg.skprx and put it in ur0/data manually. I had to create the directory myself. 

    Don't forget to download Autoplugin 2 for SharpScale, DolcePolce, and other must-have plugins. (original reddit thread)


    I get a read-only message in Content Manager.

    This just means QCMA on your PC isn't pointing to the right directories.  But even after you change them, you still have to click Refresh Database. Then you should be good to go!


    PS Store and other sign-in methods immediately kick me out. 

    Since official firmware doesn't seem to be updated anymore, I prefer to stay on the latest (3.74) and just use the browser hack (jailbreak.psp2.dev). As such, there was probably no need for iTLS-Enso which was a featured app within VitaDeploy. Once I got rid of it, I could sign in. 

    EDIT: Actually, reVita, one of the more essential plugins for PSTV, doesn't work on newer firmwares, so back to 3.65 Enso it is. I was tired of Chovy-sign breaking all the time anyway. 


    I enabled two-factor authentication (2FA) but it's still confusing.

    I like to set this up on a browser. When you enable it, you're making unique passwords for unique devices, and when you log into those devices (e.g. PS3, Vita, or PSTV), you're using those unique passwords, not your "real" password as you would on your PS4 or PS5.

    In fact, when jailbreaking my PSTV, I had formatted and deactivated plenty of times, but the unique password I had made specifically for that device a year ago still worked.


    Downloads and Transfers always stop 

    Seems like you can't rely on the Vita's memory card formatting after all. In my experience, a game stopped transferring, and when I tried outright downloading it, the download stalled at a similar point in the progress bar. I will try what this commenter said on a video:

    Format your SD card on your PC as EXFat with 64 KB clusters; 128 KB clusters for 128GB cards and smaller. I use 1 TB cards in my Vita & they work great.

    I do the whole zzblank / Win32DiskImager thing first, to be safe. 

    EDIT: Seems you CAN properly format on just the Vita alone with UX0 to SD CloneTool Vita. But in my experience, you definitely want to install and enable YAMT first (Settings > Devices > Storage Devices , leave all defaults). 

    I thought UX0 to SD CloneTool would just clone the contents of the memory card, but it mounted too, and I wanted YAMT to do that since YAMT is nicely integrated into the Settings menu. But on this particular Vita, I didn't have YAMT installed first. If you use UX0 to SD CloneTool first without YAMT, the app will mount, but then YAMT will be broken. What I did was run UX0 to SD CloneTool a third and final time with YAMT enabled and both YAMT options set to default. UX0 to SD CloneTool will give you a warning about exiting if your setup is working and that starting will reset, but this is what you want. When you do this, your system will restart. Then in the YAMT system settings, set ux0 to SD2Vita and uma0 to... well, I hope this doesn't actually matter, but I set it to Internal Storage because this Vita is a 2000 with the built-in memory.

    Trying this again with a (more or less) fresh Vita TV, I got stuck in a bootloop with the UX0 to SD CloneTool after running it once and restarting, but holding the power button to go in safe mode and restore & delete, I tried the old way (download VitaDeploy, install YAMT lite, restart, go in Settings > Storage Devices, check Use YAMT, ux0: SD2Vita, uma0: Default)... and no freeze, so the SD2Vita card isn't broken. So maybe stick with the old ways after all, like Grandma always said!


    Adrenaline Error: 80010087

    Wrote about it here:

    got this error when trying to play my own purchased stuff in their original EBOOT format, not ISO. Although converting to ISO would work, I remember reading that you have a limit of 100 ISOs, and EBOOTs have no such limitation. And I've never touched NPSBrowser.

    I use AutoPlugin II, so what worked for me was:

    PSP plugins > Install npdrm free plugin from qwikrazor87 > install the one "modified by lusid1"

    FWIW I also have these relevant Vita plugins:

    0syscall6 by SKGleba

    Adrenaline by TheOfficialFloW (Fix double touch)

    NoNpDrm by TheOfficialFloW

    Monday, March 4, 2024

    ExtremeRate Joy-Con replacement shells for Nintendo Switch

    Just did this mod myself. Highly, highly recommended over spending 2x or 3x for a pre-modded one on Etsy. If you can keep track of screws, you're in good shape. So just get an ice cube tray or something.


    I'd say the d-pad is good / very good, if not a little stiff. It's better than the stock Joy-con, as good as the d-pads of the NDS and 3DS,  and as good as or better than the d-pad on the Vita (which everyone says it's "the best" but I think is only better than average). My test is, if I can rub out a Shoryuken without any effort at all, it's good, and this d-pad lets you do that. I had less success doing a Shoryu Reppa, so it's not as good as my favorite d-pads (PSP-3000 and PS4). But it's perfectly adequate for shmups. With a Pintendo grip or similar, you can shmup without compromise in handheld mode.

    EDIT: Got another one by some professional modder (overpriced, don't do this) and the d-pad was even less stuff. But let me be clear: none of these give the Joy-con a pivot. I should've just gotten this 3D-printed one after all: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hx8ziW64xo4

    Wednesday, December 6, 2023

    Updating Vita from 3.65 Enso to 3.74 with Henkaku

    EDIT (2026-02-05): Actually, plenty of reasons to just stick to 3.65 Enso. Check my other Vita posts on this blog. This post is now just for reference. 


    EDIT (2024-06-09): Best video tutorial here. Original post below...


    I'm a year behind on Vita stuff! The latest firmware for the Vita is 3.74. 

    I decided to update my Japanese Vita 2000 because NoNpDrm wasn't as easy to use as I thought and I wanted to use that official alarm clock app again. I was aware I wouldn't be able to use Adrenaline anymore, but actual PSPs are better for everything a PSP can do (save for the smaller screen size and save states for PS1 games), and actual PSPs don't have the extra lag Adrenaline does.

    My 32 GB Vita memory card should be good enough for all the officially purchased Japanese Vita and PSP games I want to play.

    There are a lot of required updates to get everything running on 3.74, so I'm just going to document the order in which I do things:

    1. UPDATING TO THE LATEST OFFICIAL FIRMWARE: I couldn't simply update from 3.65 to 3.74 through Wi-Fi even if I disabled spoofing, and eventually I had to reboot in Safe Mode and start from scratch. I think I selected Restore System here. Signing in again, I used the 2FA secondary password I had made for my Vita a while back.
    2. GETTING HENLOhttps://deploy.psp2.dev/ (EDIT: The preferred URL nowadays is jailbreak.psp2.dev )
    3. UPDATING VITASHELL: My VitaShell was on 2.02, but the latest is a 2.04 unofficial fork which is what you want for 3.74. I can't use VitaShell to update VitaShell, and installing henkaku doesn't restore Molecular shell. Using the Vita's browser you can go to https://deploy.psp2.dev/ for the HENlo app, install henkaku and VitaDeploy,  and delete your existing VitaShell icon if you haven't already. Go to Vita Settings and enable Unsafe Homebrew, use VitaDeploy's file browser to open the old 2.02 VitaShell (which isn't truly VitaShell I guess), then install the 2.04 vpk and launch that on the Vita home screen. 
    4. USING SD2VITA: VitaDeploy has a tool for this built in.

    EDIT: Trying again with my 1000:
    1. On Enso bubble, hit Triangle to uninstall hack. Restarts. 
    2. Vita prompts to update system software, but upon getting from Wi-Fi it says already it's already on the latest (C3-12049-6). Memory card updates database. Stuck... Trying Settings > Restore Settings. That did the trick! New system software is downloading and installing. 
    3. Bubbles will return (if blank) by going to VitaShell > Refresh LiveArea... but will take a LONG time (several minutes for 1%), and will stop around 20-30% because you'll run out of actual space on the LiveArea (max is 10 pages)... so collect your bubbles in folders and try again, maybe multiple times. 
    4. For white/invisible bubbles, tap on them to get to the splash screen (no need to actually start it), and at this point the bubble icon will reappear but still remain invisible on the main LiveArea through the folder preview. To get them visible there, get all the icons in a folder visible, then move an icon out of the folder and then move it back in. Don't just move the icon; you have to actually set it down it outside a bubble, then enable moving and move it back inside a bubble again. 
    5. Even after all this, games that were NOT Vita games remained invisible on the LiveArea screen, but were able to be transferred from the Vita to a PC in Content Manager. 

    Wednesday, November 22, 2023

    Official 3-letter abbreviations for characters in Tekken

    Work in progress. How did I get these? 

    • Tekken Dark Resurrection on PSP has them right in the open.
    • For characters exclusive to Tekken 3, I just cleared Time Attack mode with them, which I never play. Put your initials as "AAA" and it'll turn into the official 3-letter abbreviation.

    Still to do: 

    • Go through Tekken 2, 4, 6, Tag Tournament 2, 7.
    • Confirm Jinpachi's 3 letters.
    • Confirm any differences between all other Jacks, Marshall/Forest Law, and Raven/Master Raven. 


    AMK = Armor King

    ANN = Anna

    ASK = Asuka

    BAE = Baek

    BRU = Bruce

    BRY = Bryan

    CHR = Christie

    DOC = Doctor B.

    DRA = Dragunov

    DVJ = Devil Jin

    FEN = Feng Wei

    GAN = Ganryu

    GUN = Gun Jack

    HEI = Heihachi

    HWO = Hwoarang

    JAC = Jack

    JIN = Jin

    JUL = Julia

    KAZ = Kazuya

    KIN = King

    LAW = Law

    LEE = Lee

    LEI = Lei

    LIL = Lili

    MAR = Marduk

    MOK = Mokujin

    NIN = Nina

    OGR = Ogre (large green Aztec guy, a.k.a. "Ancient Ogre" in Tekken Tag Tournament 2)

    PAU = Paul

    RAV = Raven

    ROG = Roger

    STE = Steve

    TRU = True Ogre (large winged fire-breathing boss, a.k.a. "Ogre" in Tekken Tag Tournament 2)

    WAN = Wang

    XIA = Xiaoyu

    YOS = Yoshimitsu


    Palette Swaps aren't recognized, so:

    EDD = Eddy or Tiger

    KUM = Kuma or Panda


    Saturday, November 18, 2023

    Best SD card for Xstation?

    The Nintendo-branded SanDisk cards for the Switch. 256 GB ought to be enough.

    My 256 GB Samsung Pro Plus seems to be the cause of music errors in Tekken 3...

    Monday, September 25, 2023

    And because no one asked: Best encoding settings for video on the Vita

     Straight from the source:

    https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/psvita/videos/filetypes.html

    MPEG-4 Simple Profile Level 6, Maximum 1280 × 720 pixels, AAC

    H.264/MPEG-4 AVC Baseline/Main/High Profile Level 4.0, Maximum 1080p, AAC

    I encode all my videos with MeGUI now. If there was ever a reason to re-encode videos without losing too much quality (and for 1080p I don't settle for less than 12000 kbps at Very Slow speed), it would now be for the following reasons:

    1. To insert chapter marks
    2. To ensure they all play on the Vita and most everything else

    I think I'll even try videos with multiple audio tracks since it seems to be available on the Vita:

    https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/psvita/videos/vsettings.html

    Of course, you'll need to use QCMA for this, not VitaShell.

    https://manuals.playstation.net/document/en/psvita/cm/content_pc.html

    Default directory example for... reasons:

    C:\Users\justi\Videos

    Tuesday, September 19, 2023

    A fix for the rare MiSTer FPGA "no video" problem

    No video or black screen?

    So here's what happened to me: I ran the Update All script, and although it said not everything was able to be updated, I started a game anyway (Ms. Pac-Man if you're wondering). I had no video after starting up the core. Resetting, power cycling, and unplugging/plugging didn't help.

    Luckily I found this tweet:

    Some users are experiencing no video on MiSTer after running updater, downloader, or update_all. This appears to be due to an intermittent file copy corruption issue and is being investigated. To get running, replace MiSTer and menu.rbf with below files from the repo. See below.

    These are the files:

    I copied over both files although only one was overwritten (I think menu.rbf). Maybe it's because of my JAMMIX setup. Whatever it was, this fix works. I saw a menu again, and then I tried Ms. Pac-Man again and it played fine.

    If this becomes a problem, I'll need easier access to the micro SD card. I will say I am thinking about getting a micro SD extender because it's hard enough as it is to remove the micro SD card from the whole JAMMIX setup in the first place. You have to open the case, unscrew the JAMMIX from the four mounts, remove the I/O shield, and hope you're good enough with tweezers to handle the micro SD card. There's a gap in the Jasen's Customs case between the I/O shield and the back of the case, which I really didn't like at first, but now I think I can take advantage of it to squeeze the micro SD extender through.

    Thursday, June 22, 2023

    MiSTer FPGA setup, as I understand it

    Purchasing:

    If you want to build it yourself to save yourself some cash, get a DE10-Nano Kit which is the brains of this whole thing. Direct from the source is your least expensive (but still expensive) bet. 

    For the MiSTer itself as well as enclosures, check out Ultimate Mister for your choice of either a compact but "squid" look (which is what you'll get once you actually connect stuff to it) or a bigger case that doesn't have wires coming out of its eyes, ears, and mouth. Retro Frog via Stone Age Gamer has some good stuff too, including an attached hard drive enclosure that works with his cases (more on that later). 

    I went for a full JAMMIX kit from Ultimate Mister with a Jasen's Customs ITX case.

    You're still gonna need stuff with your enclosure if you get the JAMMIX kit (check the Jasen's Customs link again). This includes being able to crimp Dupont connectors (I think they're 2.54mm). Get a cheap kit on eBay with the headers.

    If you don't want a hard drive to store games, you're done. If you do (and this is the correct answer), also get a Pico power supply and power brick. I used these:


    Update before doing anything else:

    Plug in a USB keyboard into the MiSTer.

    Make sure you have the Update All script which will give you everything you need. If you bought a pre-assembled MiSTer, you may already have it on your micro SD card. 

    Might want to grab some of wizzomafizzo's scripts too. I particularly like the BGM script which lets you play whatever music you want from the menu.

    Power on your MiSTer and run the script from the menu. The first time you run it from you, it'll take about 45 minutes to an hour. When you're done (should be back at the MiSTer main menu, I think), power off. 

    As for navigating with a controller: 

    • DualShock 4: Circle is "confirm" and X is "back."
    • Saturn-style retro-bit: A is "confirm" and B is "back."


    Storage:

    Get a 128 GB micro SD at a minimum. 

    I added an additional 1 TB SSD, which is best powered externally or your Pico power supply.

    The JAMMIX kit provides mounting holes for 2.5" drives, and for Retro Frog cases, there is the MASE.

    What do you actually want to put on the hard drive? Just games. After formatting to exFAT, create a folder on the root called "games" (in lower-case, as it's case-sensitive). Then just cut and paste whole folders from your SD card (in media/games) into the games folder on your hard drive, e.g. move the whole "GBA" folder. 


    FTP: 

    Enable FTP on the MiSTer with a script and plug in an ethernet cable.

    User name: root Password: 1

    Your micro SD is in media/fat.

    Your external hard drive is in /media/usb0.

    If you did what I did, the actual cores are still in /media/fat. 

    PSX saves are in media/fat/saves/PSX and named after your game folder names in .sav format. These cards are entire memory cards with the one save file on them. Cards are in raw .mcd format according to the Github, and MiSTer can read your own .mcd files by going to PSX > Mount Memory Card and choosing the .mcd file.

    This means to get saves from your real PlayStation memory card (or other sources), grab the save somehow with MemcardRex and do any conversion with this online save file converter. Note that MiSTer expects memory cards, not just saves; if you backup your PSX saves as single saves (which is the way to go, in my opinion), open up MemcardRex, right-click in the free slot area and choose Import Save. then click the Save icon to save as a memory card in .mcd format. Name the .mcd file the same as your game, FTP it over to media/fat/saves/PSX, and you should be good.

    Monday, June 12, 2023

    Totally unauthorized transcript: JAMMIX PC Console Build Guide Video

    Had to transcribe this while building my Jammix.  Clean verbatim: ums, uhs, stutters, false starts removed.


    JAMMIX PC Console Build Guide Video (by Jammix Io)

    YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNkmas9ZmGE

    Purchase: https://www.jammix.io/


    [00:00:00]

    SOME GUY:  This is the ITX case build guide for the JAMMIX.  Just got a bunch of components on the desk.  I'm gonna cover them all and go through everything on how to build JAMMIX.  One of the things that we need to do before we get started here is talk about the micro SD card.  If you have not already put MiSTer on your micro SD card, there'll be links in the description for both of the installers.  You can either use the Mr. Fusion installer or the Windows SD card writer.  I think it's a little bit easier to use the Windows SD card writer.  Of course, there are also two files that need to get edited once you have MiSTer installed on your flash card.  


    [00:00:36]

    SOME GUY:  And of course, that is the u-boot.txt.  And that's found in the Linux directory on the root.  There's instructions in the description of this video of how to edit that.  And then of course, you're also going to need your -- to edit your MiSTer .ini file.  And there are instructions on what to add to that also in the description of this video.  There's also a link at the bottom of the description here also for the MiSTer -- or, I'm sorry, for the JAMMIX operator's guide.  And that'll have lots of other good tips on how to use the system.  We'll go everything, though, in how to set it up for ITX or ATX case.  


    [00:01:13]

    SOME GUY:  Anyway, since we have the flash card right now, let's go ahead and put it into the DE10-Nano.  Now, it's also important to note that the DE10-Nano does not come with JAMMIX.  That's got to be purchases separately.  We also recommend that you use an SD RAM.  This is a 128 Meg one.  At the time of this video, this is the largest one there is.  So I would definitely pick up one of those if you're setting up your JAMMIX for the first time too.  Also, not included with the JAMMIX I/O is this particular case, and I'll show it off a little bit more.  We have a couple of additional cables that aren't with it, and I'll talk about those.  Also, a power supply is not included.  


    [00:01:54]

    SOME GUY:  You can use the DE10's power supply, the one that comes with it, but I would not recommend it.  It's really a lot better, especially when you're running on the JAMMIX I/O, to have at least a 4-amp power supply.  And if you can get a higher one, that's even better.  Also, if you're using an ATXpower supply or a Pico power supply, of course you'll want to get a good power supply for those too if you're gonna use one of those.  Anyway, so let's go ahead and get into the build.  


    [00:02:29]

    SOME GUY:  I think to start, probably do just one of the simple things, which is we need to go ahead and put the standoffs onto the JAMMIX board and get that going.  And so I'll do that right now.  I like to do that from the back side of the board.  And I put in the first three ones first, and then put in one of the cables, just 'cause I think it's easier.  So let's go ahead and do that.  And I'm gonna go ahead and move this off to the side just a little bit, just so we have a little bit more room on the desk and I can kinda show what's going on.  


    [00:03:03]

    SOME GUY:  So I have one of the included screws.  Your screws might look a little bit different than mine, just depending on the batch.  But they're all 3-millimeter -- or not -- I'm sorry, 3M screws.  Standard PC screws.  So I'm gonna go ahead and just put these in finger-tight.  And I'm doing these standoffs right here.  And like I said, I like to do the first three.  If you look, there is a line around the top of the board here, and that's where the DE10 sits.  


    [00:03:35]

    SOME GUY:  So I like to do this one last, and I'll show you guys why in a minute.  All right.  So now we're down to that last standoff.  And the reason I like to do that one last is I put in the USB cable in before I put in that standoff just 'cause it's easier to get do when you don't have that standoff there.  And then I'll go ahead and put in that last standoff.  You just want to make sure that has a nice, good fit and it's in there nice and snug.  


    [00:04:18]

    SOME GUY:  So, once we have that set, I'm gonna go ahead and put in the ethernet cable.  And you wait until you hear that click.  And then you know that it's in there nice and good.  So at this point in time, we can go ahead and work on our first set of jumpers.  These two right here.  So here are the first two jumpers.  This one right here is the SOG jumper.  That's sync-on-green.  If you're going to be using a sync-on-green monitor, you may want to set this up in advance or play around with it a little bit, as it's difficult to get at once it's in the case, especially if you have a smaller case like the one we're using.  


    [00:05:00]

    SOME GUY:  And on the other side is the 5-volt power.  You can do 5-volt or 3-volt VGA power.  And that's because that allows this D-sub here to actually have one of those pins output 3-volt or 5-volt so you can power external things.  So just a nice feature and future-proofing for some of the add-ons here on JAMMIX in the future.  So, at this point, probably the next thing you want to do is you want to go ahead and put in the ribbon cable here.  And the reason we do this now is this ribbon cable is difficult to get at once you have this in a case, again especially if you have a small case like this one.  


    [00:05:41]

    SOME GUY:  And this ribbon, this is the medium-size ribbon cable.  This is the large.  And then obviously this is the small one.  We want to kinda fold that cable just so we get a nice bend in it.  And we want to see that there's a key on this cable right here.  Let me see if I can get the light to shine in it here.  You can kinda see how there's that key right there.  We want to make sure that that key fits on our fan board.  And you can see right -- let me see if I can bring it up to the camera here -- how there's that key right there.  So we want to make sure that this key is facing the right way for it when we put it in.  


    [00:06:18]

    SOME GUY:  The fan board will go with the barrel jack here towards the back.  And so we just want to make sure we have that key going up to the top there.  And I'll go ahead and put it on these pin headers right now while we can get to it nice and easily.  All right, so that one's done there.  The next step that we're gonna want to do is we're going to want to take off the D-subs' USB -- I'm sorry, the D-sub screws here.  And you can use a little tool if you have a set of pliers.  I'm gonna see what I have.  


    [00:06:54]

    SOME GUY:  They should be, like, finger-tight.  You may need to have, like, a little pair of needle noses or a little socket for it if you have one.  Just depends how they come from the factory.  And at this point, we're gonna put on the I/O shield.  Now, don't be alarmed if the shrouding around the D-sub comes off.  That's okay.  So like that, it comes off.  And the reason that we're doing this is this is how the I/O shield is made to stay on the board.  And so we're gonna go ahead and put in the I/O shield like this.  


    [00:07:32]

    SOME GUY:  And we'll just put it on now, and then we'll make sure that the other parts slide into it as we build JAMMIX.  So.  And that's what's gonna kinda hold that in there and hold it in place.  I really like the black I/O shield on these.  And let's see if we can get that in there nice and straight.  Or loosen this one up just a little bit.  Just to give it some wiggle room.  


    [00:08:09]

    SOME GUY:  And you just need to make these finger-tight.  And like I said, if you need to use a socket or a pair of needle noses, you can use those on them too.  So at this point, we're ready to start getting our case prepped.  And so I'm gonna go ahead and talk about this case right here.  This is a relatively -- I'll see if I can put it up this way.  It looks big right now on camera, but it's really not that big.  To be honest with you, this is a little bit bigger than a Dreamcast.  It's definitely a little bit taller.  Let me see if I have a Dreamcast around just to show it off.  


    [00:08:46]

    SOME GUY:  So, size-wise, you can see that it's just a little bit, like, it's on top of the Dreamcast 2.  So right there, it's about the same size, and a little bit taller just so that you guys can see.  Let me see if I can show that.  So this is a interesting story about this Dreamcast.  I'll just show it for a second here.  This is the Dreamcast 2, and it is by Keith Apothecary [sic].  He upgraded my Dreamcast here.  So, just interesting story there.  


    [00:09:22]

    SOME GUY:  And so back to the JAMMIX here.  So, this case, relatively inexpensive case.  I think this case runs around 45 bucks shipped.  Depends on what supplier you get it from.  Also if you buy it overseas or if you buy it in the United States.  And I'll cover some of the details about why I like this case.  So, the other thing to note about this case is that this case uses both USB 3 and USB 2.  I have them plugged into this board here, you might see.  


    [00:09:57]

    SOME GUY:  And you might be wondering why we have that board there.  And that board is an internal USB splitter.  I wanted to have all four ports on the front of this work.  And JAMMIX has six USB ports.  So it has, just so you guys know, it has four in the back.  And then it has two off of the headers right here.  Because this is a four-port case, though, and two of them are USB 3, we needed to have an internal splitter so that we could get more ports.  And so depending on the build of your case.  


    [00:10:37]

    SOME GUY:  Also, you might notice that we have audio here.  And JAMMIX by itself does not support the audio.  There is a planned add-on board to support HD audio for right here.  And that should be available pretty soon.  These USB splitters that you're noticing here, those are super-cheap.  They're about eight to $10 on Amazon if you're in the U.S.  And they work super-great.  They're super-easy to set up.  And I'm gonna set one up with this board.  


    [00:11:11]

    SOME GUY:  The last piece that you might notice is that this is a USB 3 cable.  And a lot of cases are now coming in USB 3.  If you plan to use them with JAMMIX, you'll need an adapter again.  These are like four or five bucks if you buy them off of a overseas website.  On Amazon, you might pay like six to eight bucks for them.  It's a relatively cheap cable for USB 3.  And you might wonder why JAMMIX doesn't have USB 3.  And that's because the MiSTer OS doesn't even support USB 3, unless that's changed in a recent update, which I don't think it has, so.  


    [00:11:43]

    SOME GUY:  So anyway, that's a rundown of this case.  Not a very big case.  It's a really nice console case, so.  And it looks really good on the shelf.  So let's go ahead and just start getting our cables situated here.  So this is the cable for my USB splitter.  And this is the cable for my USB 3 for the front of the con -- or the front of the case.  These are my ATX power switches and LEDs.  This is an audio header, which at some future time, there will be an add-on board for it that will support it for JAMMIX, but not right now.  


    [00:12:30]

    SOME GUY:  Another reason why I really like this case, you can see right here, it has a top-side PCI slot.  And this is a full-size PCI slot.  So the future add-on boards for JAMMIX will be able to take advantage of that.  I will probably end up putting a DB15 board in this case as soon as they're available.  And then I'll be able to use my DB15 joysticks with that, so.  All right, so we have the JAMMIX board at this point, and probably gonna tuck some of these cables underneath right now and come up and around.  


    [00:13:09]

    SOME GUY:  This will let me keep these nice and flat and keep them hidden.  Gonna decide how I'm gonna lay them out real quick.  Let's see.  Yeah, I'll probably do them like that.  And then this one, I need to bring up over here for that USB 2 connection, so.  I'll go ahead and lay them out.  Every little case is gonna be different, and I realize that on the camera right now this probably looks a little strange, but it should work out just fine once I get the board in here.  


    [00:13:44]

    SOME GUY:  You want to be careful that these sharp edges, aren't going on -- the solder points aren't going on any of the cables when you put it in there.  So you kinda just got to finesse it in.  And eventually we'll get everything hooked up too, so.  So, it's looking pretty good.  Let's see, that is -- I don't need that one.  


    [00:14:22]

    SOME GUY:  I do have these power cables coming up right there.  So that's looking pretty good.  And so once I'm happy with the positioning of my cables and my layout, I'm gonna go ahead and screw down the JAMMIX board.  So if you have a magnetic screwdriver, which I don't right now, that's a really helpful tool here.  


    [00:15:00]

    SOME GUY:  A screwdriver is all you need other than maybe the needle nose for doing the screws on the DB15 -- I'm sorry, on the Dsub connector.  And you can probably do it with just your hands and a screwdriver.  So I'm gonna go ahead and screw these all into the JAMMIX board and get those going.  


    [00:15:37]

    SOME GUY:  So, if you do have a case like this, there is probably enough room to squeeze a JAMMA plug in there if we needed to, or if you have a larger case, probably a little bit easier.  Could probably squeak it through maybe the PCI slot.  Or, this case actually has some punchouts in it, so I can probably punch out a hole and squeeze that through if I wanted to.  


    [00:16:14]

    SOME GUY:  And there we go.  I think we're pretty good at this point.  I'm pretty pleased with how that's working.  All right.  So the next step in all of this is going to be putting on the DE10 here.  So we want to make sure that the DE10 has the barrel jack facing the back I/O shield.  And we'll go ahead and just slide it in right there.  And we want to make it slide into that I/O shield real well too.  


    [00:16:52]

    SOME GUY:  And you can use some of the screws that are included with JAMMIX -- or, I'm sorry, at this point you're gonna want to use the standoffs.  The male to female.  It's important to use the standoffs in the right order.  So you want to make sure you're using the 20-millimeter ones on the bottom, or the 14-millimeter ones on top.  That way it will line up with the I/O shield correctly.  And again, you could use like a little socket tool if you have one, or you can just use your fingers.  


    [00:17:23]

    SOME GUY:  These just need to be finger-tight.  And once you have JAMMIX, you know, installed with these standoffs, it should be fairly solid.  It won't wiggle or shift or anything.  I mean, it's pretty much a perfect fit.  I dropped a screw -- a standoff in there.  Let me go get that.  


    [00:17:53]

    SOME GUY:  And these corners are always difficult 'cause there's just not a lot of room in them.  Especially, and anybody that's used to building PCs knows all about that too well.  Especially on these ITX builds.  You get just not a lot of clearance.  I might even -- oh, I dropped it again.  And this, again, if you had a socket would probably be good.  Maybe I'll do the other side first here.  


    [00:18:41]

    SOME GUY:  Just got to get one thread to get started.  Once you get one started, they're pretty easy.  Okay, there it goes.  All right.  So that's in there really good.  And we can see the DE10 doesn't move once you have those in there.  Finally, we're gonna take the fan board.  Again, you want to make sure that barrel jack on the fan board is facing the I/O shield.  And kinda just want to slide it into the I/O shield there.  


    [00:19:21]

    SOME GUY:  And you also want to make sure that these pins line up on the DE10.  So you want to do good visual inspection and as best you can.  And you kinda feel them go in.  You kinda feel like when things are lined up, and then you can kinda push down with them.  And the screw headers should line up really good.  So, like, the standoff right there should line up, and they should be perfect.  And then take a good visual inspection on both sides to make sure that you got the pin headers in there.


    [00:19:57]

    SOME GUY:  And then the next step actually is to, we're gonna start with this small ribbon cable.  We're gonna, again, make a nice little crease in it so that it can bend nice and flexible.  And I think I'll start with doing it down on the JAMMIX motherboard.  Give it a nice, firm press.  And let's go ahead and give him a firm press onto the DE10.  Take a good visual inspection.  Make sure you didn't miss any pins with it.  


    [00:20:32]

    SOME GUY:  Again, so we can go ahead and take the ribbon cable.  And this is the large one now.  I'm gonna go ahead and just give it a nice flex and L like that so that it's kinda bent.  And I'll go ahead and get this to slide right on in.  


    [00:21:11]

    SOME GUY:  Now, it's real important at this time that, you know, right off the beginning of the video, we put in our SD card.  If you haven't, and that's a pre-formatted SD card that's ready to go, if you haven't already, you know, built your SD card, you definitely should do that before this step and make sure that it's in the DE10.  Another thing to note is JAMMIX comes prepared from the factory -- JAMMIX has two amps, and it comes ready with the PWM amp, the RES amp -- I'm sorry.  I'm sorry, call it "amp" -- the RES DAC.  The PWM DAC.  That's the standard DAC that's found on the I/O boards.  


    [00:21:51]

    SOME GUY:  If you would like your JAMMIX to use that, it's fine.  That's how it comes right from the factory.  You'll just want to make sure that both of these little dip switches are set to RES.  If you'd like to use the alternative DAC, which is the IS2 [sic] DAC, you can go ahead and move these two dip switches to IS2.  And then you also need to move -- there's a switch setting on the DE10.  And that's detailed in the operations guide.  I'll leave a link to the operations guide in the description for this video if you want to use the IS2 audio DAC.  I think both DACs sound great.  


    [00:22:27]

    SOME GUY:  I think on the arcade, it makes more sense to use the IS2 one.  But I think that the PWM RES DAC for a console build or a case build, like PC build like that just sounds more richer.  The reason you'd want it for an arcade build for the IS2 DAC is there's less popping and clicking between cores, and it just -- it's a smoother transition for those things when you're changing cores.  We can go ahead and, let's go ahead and put in this last cable on the fan board here and go ahead and screw it down.  


    [00:23:02]

    SOME GUY:  And like I said, if you want to use the PWM DAC, which is how JAMMIX comes from the factory, it's already jumpered and ready to go so you don't have to even make any changes to your DE10.  And the PWM DAC sounds great.  While we're talking some more internals to JAMMIX, JAMMIX I believe A/C couples all three of the RGB lines, and they look really good.  It's really good.  Really clean-looking.  I know with the regular I/O board, only the green line has a cap on it, so.  


    [00:23:46]

    SOME GUY:  Think the video, the analog video looks really good on JAMMIX.  And you want to make sure all these screws are in nice and straight.  You might want to take this one back off to do this last screw.  I guess I'm gonna do that.  It'll just help me get at it a little bit.  And I'll show it so you can see it right here.  


    [00:24:22]

    SOME GUY:  So.  Here we are.  So the one last thing we want to talk about is setting your jumpers for mono or stereo for audio output for the analog audio.  You might also wonder why we have two jumpers for each of the DACs and two jumpers for each of the mono.  And that's just because left and right channels for the audio.  And I'm gonna move my jumpers into stereo.  So these are the two jumpers.  I'll try to pull them up right here.  These are the two jumpers for stereo.  There's a section labeled mono on them.  If you want it to be stereo, move the jumpers into the other direction.  


    [00:25:09]

    SOME GUY:  And I want mine to be stereo because this is going to be a consolized case.  So at this time, we can also go ahead and tuck in the ethernet bridge cable.  And what I like to do is fold that in half like this.  So, see if you can see that.  I fold it in half.  Do kinda like a loop.  And tuck that under the DE10.  And then plug it in till I hear a click.  


    [00:25:44] 

    SOME GUY:   And then same with the USB.  Just gonna go ahead and plug it in.  Be very gentle with that USB connection.  The DE10s are notorious for that kinda breaking off.  Also, I'm gonna take my case's USB connector and I'm gonna go ahead and plug that in at this time.  And that's plugged in real good.  


    [00:26:28]

    SOME GUY:  And then I'm going to take the USB 3 adaptor and I'm gonna go ahead and plug it in, it's keyed, and plug it in there.  And I'm going to duck this cable up and kinda put it into right here.  And we'll put that cable, we'll tuck it over here.  Guess the next step for me is to grab the power switch cables.  Maybe I'll untuck that.  I'm gonna pull it through here.  


    [00:27:05]

    SOME GUY:  And of course, anybody who knows who's built PCs before, you know, you always kinda struggle with all these small connectors.  So we're gonna go ahead and plug in the power switch.  And the power switch is all the way at the end here.  My hand's probably covering it up.  And then there is the LED lights.  Note that the power LEDs, they are specific on which is positive and which is negative.  So you might end up flipping those around.  


    [00:27:50]

    SOME GUY:  And maybe I'm gonna do the disk use lights first.  And so just depending on your case, what your case has, you may have more lights or more switches or more buttons.  And JAMMIX actually breaks out the header for all of those lights and buttons.  So you can choose which ones you want to add.  And then finally, I think that's it.  So we have USB, we have the -- oh, we need to do power, of course.  


    [00:28:21]

    SOME GUY:  So I'm gonna go, I think, with a Pico power supply for this case.  There's not really room for a true ATX case.  But you can use an ATX case.  Like if you had a legit ATX power supply.  Obviously, this one won't fit in this case.  JAMMIX uses a 24-pin ATX.  For this particular case, I would recommend a Pico like this.  Now you can always power JAMMIX off of the fan board power. 


    [00:28:55]

    SOME GUY:  And I would recommend, actually, if you're gonna use a PC-style case, that you use a Pico power supply, and then use a really good 12-volt power supply.  Try to avoid the wall warts.  You really want a good brick.  You know, something that's like between 4 and 8 amps, 12-volt.  And if you do use a Pico power supply, be very, very careful not to plug the 12-volt into your 5-volt MiSTer fan board or 5-volt DE10.  


    [00:29:27]

    SOME GUY:  In the past, I've just put stickers over these, or a small piece of tape just so that I don't accidentally plug in a 12-volt power supply.  And I usually label the tip of my 12-volt power supply with like a red line.  So I'm gonna go ahead and put in this Pico power supply.  These Picos are really, really nice.  They're not that expensive too.  I think, you know, maybe like 25 bucks on Amazon and you can get a great Pico.  Let's see.  We're gonna run it through right here.  And let me see if I have a washer for that, or if that slid off my desk here.  Ah, here it is.  


    [00:30:16]

    SOME GUY:  So we'll go ahead and put it right there.  It's just out of the way of the PCI slot, so that's good.  And I'm just gonna put it on there finger-tight, really, and kinda just tuck it.  Tuck it right here.  Actually, I might -- eh, I think that's fine.  So, at this point now, we have our Pico power supply in our case.  And this is a really, really good-looking JAMMIX, so.  Just really, really pleased with the build.  


    [00:30:58]

    SOME GUY:  So let's go ahead and case up this case.  So one of the really cool things about JAMMIX is it allows -- actually, we got two more screws for this case.  And every case is gonna be a little bit different.  These are extra JAMMIX screws that we supply with JAMMIX.  Every case is gonna be a little bit different.  And I'll talk about why, again, why I really like this case. 


    [00:31:33]

    SOME GUY:  One of the things you might already notice -- I'll try and see if I can show it.  You see there's lots of clearance space between the top of the I/O and the -- let me see if I can get it down here.  Can see that there's lots of space between the top of the I/O and the fan here, so it gives JAMMIX and the DE10 a lot of room to breathe.  That's really nice.  You're gonna want a case that's a little over -- at a minimum, gonna have to have at least 65 inches -- or, I'm sorry, 65 millimeters.  That's about how tall JAMMIX is in the stack.  You really want to have more room than that.  


    [00:32:12]

    SOME GUY:  The RGEEK L85 cases are really nice.  That's the little black and silver cases.  Those are even smaller than this case.  And I really like those too.  I'll probably leave a link in the description to both this case and to the RGEEK L85.  Those are really nice.  The problem with the L85 RGEEK case is it does not have a PCI slot.  So you're never gonna be able to expand your JAMMIX when the PCI cards for add-ons come out.  But if you just want a normal MiSTer that looks great on your desk or on your TV console or -- they're definitely really good cases.  


    [00:32:58]

    SOME GUY:  So I'm gonna go ahead and screw on this top plate.  This is the same case that is on the MiSTer website -- I'm sorry, on the JAMMIX website.  jammix.io is the address for that if you want to see more pictures of it.  And this case does come in black, and it does come in silver.  The black ones are a little bit harder to find.  I don't know why.  They just are.  


    [00:33:37] 

    SOME GUY:  And at that point, the case is all sewed up.  Want to do one more thing before we get started with it is all of the JAMMIXs come with a MiSTer sticker, and would really like to put that on the front of the case here.  And the stickers are really nice.  They're that case badge-quality sticker, kind of like what you see for the CPU stickers.  Made out of like the same material.  And the ones here, I think they have like a brushed aluminum look, and it actually looks really good.  


    [00:34:12]

    SOME GUY:  So, here is that sticker.  Probably gonna put mine on, like, about, like, that.  I might turn it around towards me.  I know it'll be upside-down for you all, just so I can get this sticker on.  Figure out where I want it.  And maybe do I want it over here.  Yeah, I think I am gonna go with putting it above the -- actually, now I'm gonna put it above the power.  I liked it over on the power side.  I'm gonna carefully peel off the backing on it.  You just need kinda like a fingernail to get underneath it and kinda get it started.  


    [00:34:56]

    SOME GUY:  So here it is.  I got the backing peeled off.  Gonna make sure that it's nice and clean where it's going.  If you have like an alcohol wipe, that'd probably be a good idea to wipe that down too.  And probably put it there just like that.  And I'll put it around for you all so you can see it.  But that looks really good.  See if I could shift it just a little bit.  Yeah, that looks really good.  So that is a hot-looking case now.  Of course, then you have the back I/O. 


    [00:35:30]

    SOME GUY:  Like, you want to talk about MiSTer, that is the most beautiful case I think I've ever seen for MiSTer.  Like, just having everything there.  Of course, you have your SNAC port.  You know, you have your HDMI.  You have your D-sub out for RGB and component and VGA.  Four USB ports.  You know, your line in, your line out.  One thing that I did notice on these cases and on these is the lights on the ethernet do not light up.  And I was told the reason why this is, is they did not want to waste pins on the FPGA.  


    [00:36:10]

    SOME GUY:  So, just know that those link lights don't light up.  And I was told that because of the part shortage, it was really difficult to find a stack like this that did not include lights.  And for those that don't know right now, there's a huge part shortage coming out of China for electrical components.  So the team made the decision to go ahead and purchase the one that had lights and just not hook them up.  But other than that, man, this is a beautiful-looking board.  


    [00:36:40]

    SOME GUY:  I guess while I'm here, I might as well also show you the brick power supply.  So because we're using a Pico -- let me see if I have it here, hmm.  Hmm, maybe I don't have the power supply around.  Because we're using that Pico, we want to make sure that we're always using this power port here as opposed to those, so.  That's just a big thing and one thing I thought I should warn people about upfront, so.  


    [00:37:13]

    SOME GUY:  Anyway, this is a great-looking MiSTer now.  Maybe I'll compare it again to a Dreamcast.  Let me see if I have another one here.  This is a different one.  Isn't the Keith Apothecary one.  But you can kinda see, it's relatively the same size.  It's a little bit bigger.  Not much.  Those RGEEK L85 cases, they're pretty much Dreamcast size.  And that was the one, if you guys watched Alnonymous's livestream that he previewed JAMMIX in. 


    [00:37:46]

    SOME GUY:  So, anyway, good-looking case.  And good-looking MiSTer.  And just, those of you that are going to do PC case builds, man, this is the way to run it.  I'm looking forward to getting the add-on boards for the HD audio as well as the DB15s for the PCI slot for arcade sticks.  Anyway, we hope you enjoyed the video.  Just as a gentle reminder, there is also a operator's guide that is out.  I'll link to it into the video here.  And it will be in the description.  


    [end of file: JAMMIX PC Console Build Guide Video]

    Thursday, June 1, 2023

    Totally unauthorized transcript: HD15-2-SCART: RGBHV & RGBs to SCART

    Note: This is the first of possibly many transcripts I do for both fun and necessity (never just one or the other). I kept referring to the video linked below because I really had to make sure I wasn't going to wreck my expensive gscartsw and gcompsw with my supergun. 

    Right now, I made new line breaks whenever I felt a natural break. Otherwise, I'd go every 30 or 40 seconds. Ultimately though, I'd like to turn this into something like a CCSL, just without frames. Hopefully it'll still look good in this Blogger template.


    HD15-2-SCART: RGBHV & RGBs to SCART (by RetroRGB)

    YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifb9YBIHMpU

    Purchase: https://castlemaniagames.com/products/rondo-products-hd15-2-scart

     

    [00:00:00]

    BOB:  A new device was just released that solves one very annoying problem that retro gamers often run into: how to connect consoles that output via a VGA-style D-sub connector to devices that have SCART inputs.

     

    [00:00:00]

    BOB:  Some of the most helpful tools aren't always the flashiest, but I love them just as much as the rest.  So, let's take a look at the HD15-2-SCART adapter. 

     

    [00:00:22]

    [intro sequence]

     

    [00:00:36]

    TEXT:

    RetroRGB

    HD15-2-SCART: RGBHV to RGBs Converter

     

    [00:00:38]

    BOB:  Before we get into the video, I just want to make the point that this device does not change the resolution of the signal being fed through it.  This isn't a downscaler that converts VGA to RGB; this is simply a device that passes the RGB signals from a D-sub connector through to SCART with a switchable option to combine H&V sync into Csync.

     

    [00:00:46]

    TEXT:

    *THE HD15-2-SCART adapters shown in this video are prototypes - Production versions will look slightly different.

     

    [00:00:56]

    BOB:  That's still a really necessary tool in most people's retro gaming setups, but I wanted to set expectations straight.  Okay, let's start with a quick overview of how it works. 

     

    [00:01:08]

    BOB:  This is a device designed by Tian Feng that's part connector adapter, part sync combiner.  To start, the RGB and ground signals are passed directly through the D-sub connector without any conversion at all.  Then, a 3.5mm jack allows audio to be routed, and all of those signals are passed directly to the SCART output, converting the connector from D-sub to SCART.  The only circuit in the adapter, and what sets this apart from other connector converters, is the sync combiner and sync attenuation.

     

    [00:01:33]

    TEXT:

    *Once again, this is a prototype that I hand-soldered.  Production versions will look MUCH cleaner than this!

     

    [00:01:40]

    BOB:  When set to VGA mode, the horizontal and vertical sync signals are combined via an XNOR circuit originally designed by Ste from HD Retrovision.  This allows things like a Dreamcast's VGA cable to be used on a RetroTink 5X.  The next setting is RGBs mode, which passes the sync through a resistor that drops it to a voltage safe enough to be used with devices like the MiSTer's I/O board on SCART equipment. 

     

    [00:02:06]

    BOB:  Also, for cost reasons, this is a unidirectional device.  It only works as a D-sub-to-SCART adapter, not the other way around.  We are working on a device that goes in the reverse direction, but more on that later.  Okay, let's check out some examples of this thing in action. 

     

    [00:02:23]

    BOB:  I think one of the main uses for this device is connecting 480p VGA signals to SCART devices that can handle the higher-resolution signal.  The RetroTink 5X is a perfect example.  It doesn't have any VGA inputs, but has no problem accepting 480p signals. 

     

    [00:02:39]

    TEXT:

    *Safe voltage can only be guaranteed if purchased from reputable sellers, or if the EXACT design and BOM are used - if you change a component, the voltage can change. 

     

    [00:02:39]

    BOB:  This device passes RGB right through, then combines sync into a level that's perfectly safe for all SCART devices.  The creator of the Tink 5X, Mike Chi, also confirmed it's safe, and should work fine with TV resolutions.  PC resolutions may not work on the Tink 5X, but should be safe to try.

     

    [00:02:56]

    TEXT:

    *Looks like the Virtual Tap's 800x600 output isn't compatible with the current RetroTINK 5x firmware.

     

    [00:03:00]

    BOB:  Another great example are multiformat CRTs, as most only accept component video or RGBs.  Using this device will convert RGBHV to a voltage-compatible RGBs that'll also work with pretty much all PVMs and some BVMs.  As with the Tink 5X, resolution still matters, so make sure your source device is sending a compatible resolution to your target display.

     

    [00:03:23]

    TEXT:

    *Some monitors like the H-series BVM's require special, powered sync circuits

     

    [00:03:28]

    BOB:  And speaking of compatibility, the HD15-2-SCART is designed specifically for retro gaming equipment.  That means if you're using PAL consumer-grade CRTs, this most likely won't work, as it doesn't have voltage connected for the blanking pin.

     

    [00:03:39]

    TEXT:

    *I don't believe any supported 480p through RGB SCART either.

     

    [00:03:39]

    BOB:  This is an open-source project, so people can feel free to make a version specifically for PAL CRTs, but this one's probably not gonna work.  They will work on HDMI-to-VGA converters, though.  Once again, you need to set your source to a resolution that's compatible with your target device, but you could use this for interfacing PCs to your multi-sync monitor, or even connecting your HDMI console to the Tink 5X's SCART input for downscaling.  In fact, I used this to get most of the downscaling footage in the RetroTink 5X launch video. 

     

    [00:03:42]

    TEXT:

    *I used this RGBHV to RGBs sync combiner, as well as an HDMI to Component adapter for the downscaling testing / footage.

     

    [00:04:15]

    BOB:  Depending on your setup, HDMI to component might be a better choice.  But if you need RGBs, this is a great solution.

     

    [00:04:24]

    BOB:  Here's one more interesting use for this device in VGA mode: the OSSC.  Wait, what?  Why would anyone use this when the OSSC already has a VGA input?  Good question. 

     

    [00:04:24]

    BOB:  And the reason is the OSSC's low-pass filter is only connected to the SCART and component video inputs, not the VGA.  Sometimes this won't matter, but other times it could clean up a lot of interference.  Here, check out the screen when a device is connected directly to the VGA input.  Even though the OSSC says the low-pass filter's on, it's not affecting the VGA port at all. 

     

    [00:05:01]

    BOB:  Now let's take a look through the SCART port.  As you could see, the low-pass filter makes a big difference. 

     

    [00:05:07]

    BOB:  Depending on your source device, it might really benefit from sending it through the OSSC's SCART port instead of the VGA. 

     

    [00:05:16]

    BOB:  The HD15-2-SCART isn't just for VGA-style signals, though.  There's actually plenty of equipment in the retro gaming world that outputs RGBs over a D-sub style connector.  And the most common one these days?  The MiSTer.  That's right, with this device, you could just use a cheap shielded VGA cable, and have an easy way to interface the MiSTer to SCART equipment.  And it's perfectly safe.  Something that can't be said for other supposed MiSTer SCART cables.  Here's why. 

     

    [00:05:46]

    BOB:  The Mister's analog I/O board was designed to be as versatile as possible.  It could output RGB, VGA, and component video all through the same D-Ssub Connector.  One downside of this, though, is the sync output needs to be TTL-level voltage. 

     

    [00:05:58]

    TEXT:

    1.1v under 75ohm load, is just too high for SCART equipment.

     

    [00:06:02]

    BOB:  If you're just going into an RGB monitor, that should be fine.  Make sure to check your monitor's service manual to be safe, of course, but while it should be fine for most RGB monitors, that voltage is much too high for SCART equipment.  This attenuates that voltage to a level that's perfectly safe for all devices, including all PVMs and SCART equipment.  I'll definitely be using this from now on with my MiSTer, just because I don't have to worry about anything.  As long as I grab one of these and a VGA cable, there's no safety issue.  Whereas if I grab a VGA-to-SCART cable, I'm gonna have to check to see if it's a passthrough cable, or if there's one with a resistor in it. 

     

    [00:06:03]

    TEXT:

    *MiSTer -> VGA to BNC Cable -> RGB Monitor is probably safe, but you'll need to check your monitor's specs to be sure.

     

    [00:06:39]

    BOB:  Now, there are reputable stores selling MiSTer-compatible SCART cables that include the resistor on the sync line, but some stores don't include it.

     

    [00:06:39]

    TEXT:

    *This is just one of many good "MiSTer SCART cable" sellers.

     

    [00:06:48]

    BOB:  That's right, there's sellers out there labeling their passthrough cables as safe-for-use with the MiSTER, even though there's no resistor in them. 

     

    [00:06:52]

    TEXT:

    There's no resistor on the sync line - This is NOT safe for use with the MiSTer and SCART equipment!

     

    [00:06:57]

    BOB:  Now, if you want to be safe, you could test a MiSTer SCART cable without opening it at all by using a multimeter.  Or simply by popping the SCART head open and looking for a resistor. 

     

    [00:06:56]

    TEXT:

    *Check out my video on how to test cable components for an easy way to check if there's a resistor on the sync line.

     

    [00:07:05]

    BOB:  I'd personally not worry about it at all and just use one of these, but that's totally up to you.  If you already own a MiSTer cable, definitely pop it open or test to check if there's a resistor in it, though. 

     

    [00:07:16]

    BOB:  Oh, and this will also work with the MiSTer's HDMI direct modes via an HDMI-to-VGA converter like shown before.  That's a great way for MiSTer users without an I/O board to get lag-free 1:1 RGB output.  Just follow the instructions on RetroRGB to configure your .ini file, and you'll end up with an RGBs signal that's properly attenuated for your SCART equipment. 

     

    [00:07:41]

    BOB:  There is one small downside to the attenuation, though.  Some custom RGB mods with D-sub outputs might have voltage that's too low.  There's not much of a chance of this happening, but if you have a custom setup with a bunch of crazy adapters and this doesn't work for you, you'll need to recheck your setup.

     

    [00:07:41]

    TEXT:

    LOL, there's no reason to do this.  Just showing an example of one of the RARE times you might have an issue...

     

    [00:07:59]

    BOB:  The best part is, there's no safety issue.  As long as you're using properly built consoles and superguns, the worst thing that could happen is nothing.  You just don't get a sync signal. 

     

    [00:08:09]

    BOB:  And, speaking of superguns, they're the next most likely place you'll run into a D-sub connector passing RGBs.  Here's the Axunworks JAMMA Supergun Mini.  And, like the MiSTer, it's usually safe to connect it directly to most RGB monitors, but not safe to directly connect it to SCART equipment. 

     

    [00:08:28]

    BOB:  Using this device drops sync to a perfectly safe voltage, and is an awesome way to connect the supergun to your display. 

     

    [00:08:29]

    TEXT:

    When using the HD15-2-SCART, the voltage is now down to a perfectly safe level. 

     

    [00:08:36]

    BOB:  Just a quick note.  Like with all superguns, don't crank the RGB levels too high, or that could be a voltage concern.  That has nothing to do with this device or the Axunworks Mini.  It's just a general supergun reminder. 

     

    [00:08:51]

    BOB:  One last thing before I go.  Since this is a unidirectional device, we're also working on one that goes in the opposite direction: SCART to D-sub and audio.  Now, I don't think there's any need for a circuit in that one, just a passthrough, as there shouldn't be any safety issues.  And while I don't think it's gonna be nearly as popular as this, there are a few ways that I think people would benefit from it.  Let me show a few examples. 

     

    [00:09:13]

    BOB:  First, if you have a SCART switch, you could use this along with a cheap VGA-to-BNC cable to send video to your monitor. 

     

    [00:09:13]

    TEXT:

    *SCART-2-HD15 prototype shown - The final design will most likely be different. 

     

    [00:09:21]

    BOB:  Depending on your setup, just buying a SCART-to-BNC cable might be a better option.  But this option's here if you need it. 

     

    [00:09:28]

    BOB:  Next, maybe you just want to use a VGA cable to go from your switch to your SCART device.  I mean, it's always best to keep your analog cables as short as possible, but sometimes that's just not an option.

     

    [00:09:28]

    TEXT:

    *Once again, this is a prototype.  I'll update the description once the final version is released.

     

    [00:09:40]

    BOB:  In that scenario, it might be cheaper to get both of these adapters and a long, shielded VGA cable as opposed to buying a long, shielded SCART cable.

     

    [00:09:50]

    BOB:  Now, to be honest, I'm not even sure if the SCART-2-HD15 is gonna be released as a product for sale, or just as an open-source product that people can make themselves.  But either way, keep your eyes on RetroRGB.com, 'cause as soon as there's more info, I'll definitely post there. 

     

    [00:10:05]

    BOB:  So to sum things up, if you have any D-sub equipment in your setup, including and especially the MiSTer, I'd definitely recommend buying one of these.  Now of course, if you already have a fully-wired setup that's running perfectly, you don't need to switch any of that out for this.  But on the other hand, if you're a nerd like me that always likes good tools in your toolbox, this is also something you should seriously consider. 

     

    [00:10:29]

    BOB:  Since this is an open-source project, you could feel free to make your own.  But it is not an easy installation.  That is a really small circuit on there, and I had a hard time with at least one of those parts.  Luckily, Greg from Laser Bear designed the case, as well as a jig that makes things easier when you're soldering the SCART connector onto the circuit board.  So that's available if you could 3D print your own.  But it's still not something I would call an easy install. 

     

    [00:10:56]

    BOB:  Well, that's it for this time.  Please consider supporting this channel, as all the work I'm involved in is funded directly by the retro gaming community through monthly or direct support services.  Your help is keeping all of this stuff and the weekly podcast live.  Thanks very much, and I'll see you next time. 

     

    [end of file: HD15-2-SCART: RGBHV & RGBs to SCART]